Jungle fever

Reading The Heart of Darkness before going into the Amazon probably wasn't the best idea. It's actually about the Congo and admittedly Marlow didn't have his trip organised through Gero's Tours but still, it doesn't evoke an exotic or exciting image of the jungle! We left Manaus on Sunday morning. Two boats and two vans later, we arrived at our lodge, where we got to meet our group (of fellow tourists) and our guide. Believe it or not, his name was Tarzan. This brilliant fact got us into the jungle spirit in no time.

We'd been told beforehand not to expect to see lots of animals, but we managed to see an impressive array of very un-cute creatures: snakes, scorpions, tarantulas - that kind of thing. On the first evening we went alligator spotting but because it was dark (and we were terrified), none of us got a really close look. Later Tarzan helpfully plucked one from the river and asked if we wanted a hold (I didn't). One of the highlights for Mauro was being the first in our group to catch a piranha fish. The buffet lunch featured fried piranhas too, so we also got to eat the day's catch (tasty but not much meat on them).

A two-hour trek into the jungle was another highlight. Tarzan showed us giant ants that leave you writhing in agony for 24 hours if bitten by them, huge termite mounds and hairy tarantulas, as well as lots of trees (obviously) and leaves with medicinal properties (which would come in handy later). As instructed, we'd all worn long sleeves and long trousers to avoid mosquito bites. Unfortunately my Topshop leggings proved not to be effective jungle-wear, which I realised on my return to our cabin. My legs were absolutely covered in bites.

By this point it'd been a couple of weeks since I'd been ill, so it was about time for a dodgy stomach. Now, I'm not sure if there was a bug going around the lodge, if it was the allergic reaction I experienced from my hundreds of bites or if I had delayed reaction to the Malarone malaria pills (most likely), but I got sick. Vomiting into a bucket, in intense humidity, with a mosquito net tucked in all around you, was not the trip I'd been hoping for. On the plus side, I really got to experience some jungle hospitality. Everyone was extremely kind and attentive, and provided me with a constant supply of jungle lotions and potions (most of which made me vomit even more, but still...).

Luckily I emerged from the heart of Malarone darkness within 24 hours, so was able to enjoy some other excursions. We visited some caboclos (natives), who welcomed us into their homes and had no problems with us taking close-up pictures of their children, as we tourists are wont to do! We got to taste lots of Amazonian fruit straight from the tree and I finally got to see where my favourite energy elixir comes from - the açai tree.

Mauro also got to grips (literally) with rowing through the swampy river, which was tough going at times but worth it when we got to hear the unsettling cry of the howler monkeys. It sounded like a loud bitter wind was blowing - only a lot more evil. The fact that the trees and water were completely still, with not a soul (or monkey) in sight, made it all the more eerie.

And so our four days in the jungle were up and we made our way back to the big city thoroughly satisfied with our jungle experience (and a few pounds lighter). We didn't get to see the pink dolphins as I was vomiting at the time, but we'd seen them off the Ilha do Mel so we weren't too disappointed. Aside from what we learned about the jungle itself, we met some great people and I've become remarkably blasé about a whole host of creatures that made me a nervous wreck a week ago. The frog that lived in our cistern, opposite the enormous unidentified insect on the wall, made me slightly anxious about using the loo at first, but by the last day I barely noticed they were there. What's more, back in Manaus, our low-budget hotel that smells of disinfectant now feels like absolute luxury!